Paris, je t’aime

The world is an oyster, and Paris is its pearl.” A friend of mine said this long ago when I studied abroad in Paris in 2004. It has always rung in my head as a succinct way of summing up what could be the most charming city on the planet.

For a city that is timeless, it has certainly changed in the last six years. What has not changed is how much I love this city and the place it holds in my heart. After taking several trips to London last year (another city that I love dearly) and spending so much time in the North, I found myself really missing the City of Light. So were a few of the other assistants, thus, we decided it was time for a weekend in the big city!

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Lost In Translation

I had a new student in one of my classes yesterday. A very nice girl, about 16 years-old, from Colombia. The young lady is in France for one of the same reasons as me: to improve her French. Apparently she’s here with the Erasmus Programme, which I thought was only for European Union citizens, so maybe she has dual citizenship, but I didn’t dare ask. (And yes, I wrote Programme with that -me given that it’s a Euro program, so I imagine the only Americans involved are those lucky few with two passports.)

There is one thing that all the teachers learned quite quickly: she doesn’t really speak much French at all! Being that we’re out in middle of nowhere (or as one of my French colleagues described, un trou paumé, or “a god-forsaken hole,” but I think that’s a bit harsh), it’s a bit difficult to get by without knowing a lot of French, as I have learned. But being that I’m forced to speak in French outside of the classroom, I know that she’ll pick it up better this way probably.

For the mean time, she only speaks Spanish (obviously) and some pretty good English, but it’s not quite all there yet – sort of like my French. So in class yesterday, while the students were doing research on a project for their trip to Ireland next month, my colleague asked me if I knew any Spanish. I said warily, “Sí, un poco.” So we were speaking to her first in English, but then I saw that look on her face that I recognized from the muscles in my face when I get confused or just plain tired of speaking in a second language so much. So she switched to Spanish and I translated to the teacher for her, which actually worked out pretty well.

I felt so useful! But I don’t know if I’m ready for that translator job with the E.U. yet. I continued a conversation in Spanish with her, more for my own advantage which I explained to her as I need to practice – especially given that I’m going to Spain this Sunday! (Vacances d’Hiver is the next two weeks. Yes, there are two separate vacations for Christmas and Winter in France.) My problem always seems to be the same though: mixing up words, either pronouns or pronunciations on the same words, when I switch between these two very similar, Romantic languages. If I concentrate and think in one or the other for a long time, I’m fine usually in that language. I guess we’ll see how well I do este domingo.

Aller-Retour

On January 2, I walked out my front door in San Francisco at about 5:00 AM PST. I unlocked the door to my studio in Montreuil 25 hours later.

While my journey was long, exhausting and mundane at times, it was relatively smooth – especially in comparison to other winter travel/horror stories I heard from other assistants upon my return. I managed to catch every connection on time and my little brown suitcases made its way successfully to France (filled with 45-lbs. of toiletries, food and a few pieces of clothing I exchanged for things I brought home). Basically, it went plane-plane-train-train. Sounds simple, and since I knew exactly where I was going when I got to France, it pretty much was.

It didn’t start out so certain though.

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French NYE Warnings

Last year, I celebrated New Year’s Eve in Times Square in New York City. Luckily, my former roomie Sharon works right above TS, so I wasn’t standing in my gold dress and suede heels among throngs of tourists in sub-zero temperatures. This year, I’ll be in San Francisco, although I’m little melancholy that I won’t be experiencing what NYE is like in Paris.

Well, the U.S. Embassy in Paris has sent me a warning anyway. (I registered myself with them and the State Department that I’m living abroad, so I get periodic updates and travel alerts from both agencies.)

This Warden Message alerts U.S. citizens to the latest information on New Year’s Eve celebrations in Paris and other urban centers in France.

Outdoor New Year’s Eve celebrations in Paris and other urban centers in France can be boisterous. Last year, U.S. citizens reported that glass bottles were hurled, extensive public drinking and drunkenness occurred, and sporadic fighting broke out in Paris around the Champs Elysees, the Champ de Mars, and Trocadero. Parked cars being set ablaze is also a fairly common feature of revelry in France, occurring even in upscale neighborhoods.

Violent and boisterous behavior can be expected in spite of increased police and gendarme forces. U.S. citizens who venture out on New Year’s Eve should be aware of the potential dangers mentioned above and are reminded to maintain a high level of vigilance and to take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness.

Extensive public drinking and drunkenness? Sporadic fighting? Bottles being thrown? Sounds like any American NYE, or tailgate, to me. Vive la revolution!

Coming to America

Getting to Montreuil wasn’t easy. Getting OUT was even more difficult.

First off, I couldn’t take the train to Paris’ Charles de Gaulle airport and get there before my flight within the same day within reasonable hours. I could have left at 7 AM, changed in Arras and arrived at CDG 8 hours before my flight, but I preferred not. Thus, I left Montreuil for Lille on Wednesday (Dec. 16) and spent the night at Rachel’s place. This turned out to be a great idea as it was quite a fun evening and picked up my spirits before heading home.

However, we ran into a problem with keys. She had class early in the morning, and my TGV to CDG wasn’t until noon. Thus, we rushed to Euralille at 8 PM at night with the foolish hope that a key copy shop would still be open. Carrefour (France’s Wal-Mart) still was, but as we soon found out, the key place wasn’t. Rachel and I tried coming up with several different plans, but given the way her buildng is designed (you need a key to lock the front door, mailboxes are on the inside, etc.) we couldn’t think of anything right away. We decided to ponder further over at her friend’s apartment, quite close to Gare Lille Flandres. As we were walking over in the frigid weather, I noticed something falling on me. Something soft and fluffy, but it kept disappearing on my coat.

Snow.

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Christmas Time is Here

While I have really come to love living in Northern France (beloved Nord Pas de Calais), my homesickness has recently kicked into overdrive. That’s not to say that I want to leave the program at all. I’m even toying with the idea of staying in France for another year. But I certainly do need that two-week break in the United States, only 17 days away from now. (Read More)

Marseille: Land of Gypsies and More Gypsies

rachel-king-marseille

After the incident with the weird guys on the train, the people in Marseille only got weirder. We dropped our bags off at our “family room” at the Hotel Montgrand near the Vieux Port, and our first mission was to find food. After surviving six to seven hours on a train on only chocolate cookies and “salty nuts,” we were famished. Apparently one Asian cuisine meal wasn’t enough, and after about a few minutes of reading menus at restaurants along the waterfront, we decided on Zen Zen, a very clean and new-looking Asian fast food place. While it wasn’t the best, it was cheap and pretty good, and thus became our official Marseille hangout for the next four days.

Following our late lunch (by American standards), we stopped in the Office du Tourisme to get free maps and information on local sights, and then we stopped in a few stores along Marseille’s main shopping drag. Amy wasn’t feeling too well after the long day, so the remaining three of us decided to forge on anyway. We headed up the hill to Cours Julien, the Lower East Side of Marseille. The main part is a plaza at the top of one of Marseille’s many hills (very reminiscent of San Francisco), but as we noticed along our walk, this city is very sketchy. Not to mention filthy. (I later found out that their garbage department was on strike – typical – but I don’t think it would have been THAT much cleaner anyway.) When we got to the top of the hill, we decided on a Pakistani cuisine restaurant. And after 45 minutes of being ignored (the waitstaff really tried to avoid eye contact with us after they simply told us to wait by the door for a table), we were finally seated. Then the waiter messed up our Naan order, which led to a very confusing discussion in both French and English, and even in English their answer didn’t make any sense. It was definitely time for drinks.

We first hit up Dan Racing, which was hosting a punk rock concert with mosh pits and everything. There were two weird things about this bar: one was the CA-Interstate 280 sign on the refrigerator, and the other was that their unisex bathroom had neither a toilet nor a urinal – simply a hole in the ground. I just couldn’t do it. I pleaded with Rachel and Liz that we find somewhere else quickly, and after about five minutes we found Planet Mundo, a much cleaner, upscale (but not too upscale) bar and club holding a reggae concert. They also had very clean toilets. While I was in the restroom, Rachel met a new friend named Bernard (I think), who was a local and seemed very nice. Although I didn’t really talk to him much. More on him later. After a very long day and readjusting to a new city very different from Bordeaux, it was time for bed.

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Bordeaux: Land of Wine and Macarons

rachel-king-Saint-Emilion

On a very typical Lille morning (rain, cold, more rain) on October 27, four female American language assistants boarded a TGV with a final destination of Bordeaux. After only three weeks at work (and a total of six in France for me), we already had our first paid vacation. Life in France can be very good.

As the little blue dot on my iPhone Google map application treaded southward past Gare Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy (a.k.a. the station for EuroDisney), there were only blue skies for us for the next seven days. But, as we learned, there’s a price to pay for nice weather. Namely, you’re trading in friendly people for friendly weather. You can’t have both in France. Nowhere is perfect. While we arrived in Bordeaux twenty minutes late, the five-hour train ride fairly pleasant. High-speed train is really the most relaxing way to travel long distance on a budget (Although I’ve never been on a cruise ship, I’ve never been fond of boats.). But I did make the mistake of forgetting to bring enough snacks along for the ride, and in a moment of weakness somewhere near Tours, I made my way to the Bar Car and ended up paying € 2 for a bag of Lays classic potato chips. I still can’t believe I did that.

After taking the very sleek and futuristic tram into the center of Bordeaux where our hotel was, we got in a bit of sightseeing before the day was out. We started out at the Place de la Bourse, which has a huge fountain spraying pink water and the nymphs above the fountains had pink sashes draped over themselves for breast cancer. After that, we walked on water. Literally. Bordeaux has a giant, flat reflecting pool that tourists and locals mingle barefoot over, splashing about in the daytime and then admiring the brilliant reflection of the Parliament buildings at night.

After checking out the local carnival, we met up with Liz’s Bordelaise friend, Veronique, who did us the great favor and service of showing us around Bordeaux each evening. But as we were all exhausted by the end of the first day, we passed Rue Sainte-Catherine (the longest pedestrian street in Europe), had a round of drinks and called it a day. Not without trying to find a local grocery store first though. However, we were five minutes too late when we got to the closest market to the hotel, which was actually open pretty late for France (9 PM). After deciding to walk another block, we passed a Chinese food restaurant, which prompted us to all swear to eating there for dinner the following evening as we all had gone into Asian-food withdrawal. A few doors later, Amy screamed at an appropriate American-volume level, “It’s a liquor store!” There we were able to gather necessary supplies, namely wine and cookies. After we got back to the hotel and realizing being four girls in the “penthouse” (fourth floor) of the hotel and the week of Halloween, it was the perfect time for slumber party-style sharing of ghost stories. While I told my usual Unit 3 Computing Center “I saw a Ninja-looking ghost” story again (which is so true), Amy definitely won with her retelling of La Llarona, which might not have been the most pleasant imagery before going to bed.

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Festival Des Soupes

rachel-king-festival-des-soupes

When I bought my Let’s Go: France guide-book a few months back (and after I noticed its serious printing press error of 14-pages about Spain instead of France), I came across a list of annual festivals in my humble village of Montreuil-Sur-Mer. While most take place in the summer, I happily saw one at the end of October: Le Festival des Soupes et des Pains (The Soup and Bread Festival). The book described it as a lively event in the town citadel, with admission set at 5€…all-you-can-eat soup and bread. While I was really excited about this, I wasn’t sure how much other people would actually care to come up for it.

Apparently, plenty. After I mentioned it to several other American assistants in Lille, nearly all of them were ecstatic about the idea. Initially, about seven or eight assistants said they’d come up for it, but being the first weekend of the Vacances de la Toussaint (my first of four paid two-week vacations while teaching over here), naturally some people’s plans changed. But Rachel, Pat, Marc and Rory seemed determined on the prospect of an endless supply of soup.

I sent out a confirmation Facebook message a few days in advance to see who was still coming, as I became nervous about how many people I could actually fit in my tiny studio. On Friday evening, I received a very mysterious series of text messages from Marc, first asking for my address. I sent it back, also asking what time they planned to arrive on the train. He said that he and Rory wouldn’t be taking the train, and I’d see them the next evening. While they had previously joked about biking from Lille to Montreuil, we all thought they were kidding. The two towns are 68 miles apart. But no, the pair seriously conducted their own mini Tour de France, eleven hours from Lille to my studio. More on their arrival later…

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London Town

rachel-king-london-regent-streetAfter three weeks in France, I was itching to hear a bit more English being spoken. So I went to England. Well, that wasn’t the only reason. The primary reason would be that my dear friend Mary was organizing a petite reunion of the J-Schoolers in Western Europe (more like those in London and +1 from Ireland and +1 from France).

When I woke up on Friday morning, I could see some sunlight breaking through the clouds, so I had some hope for the day’s weather. Typically, what the weather is in Northern France, it is in England. But as the day progressed, I saw it deteriorate all along my journey, finally culminating in pouring rain when exiting King’s Cross-St. Pancras International Station.

It didn’t help that back in Montreuil, I realized as soon as the TER pulled away from the station that I had forgotten my Oyster Card AND my Eurostar tickets. I was slightly nervous all the way to Lille that I going to have to pay a hefty fee for getting duplicate tickets, since it said so on the email. When I got to the SNCF counter at Gare Lille Europe, I asked the woman to reprint my tickets, when she replied, “C’est pas possible.” (It is not possible.) My jaw dropped. I said nothing. My face must have gone pale. (But judging by the photo above, I’m sure you can guess I did make it to England this weekend.) I think she realized my fright by my lack of motion or life in my body, so she went to go talk to her supervisor. He came out with her and started speaking to me in English. He then pulled out a notepad of Eurostar tickets, gave them to her and she hand-wrote my new ticket. The forms were obviously old since they still said “London Waterloo” on them.  But both of them were very nice, and probably extra so since I didn’t cause a fuss, yell or throw a tantrum when I almost didn’t get my way. (Read More)

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